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| Q’s re: driveway marker go bars--or wood? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=6988 |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:23 am ] |
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I'm making myself a new go bar deck. I'm thinking of using fiberglass rods from driveway markers (those things with the reflectors on top). Some of you have done that, and that's where I got the idea. So, some questions: once you cut off the reflectors, do you put rubber tips on the rods? If so, where do you get them, or do you make them yourself with that liquid rubber dippy stuff? Any tips on finding and using that stuff if that's how you do it? Is it a piece of cake to cut the fiberglass rods, or are they going to splinter and split on me unless I do it the right way - if so, what's the right way to do it? The other possibility I'm considering is making rods out of wood. I've only used fiberglass rods. If you've used both fiberglass and wood rods, which would you recommend and why? If you use wood rods and love 'em, what species do you use and how thick do you make them? And finally, I'd be interested to hear how much longer you make the rods than the distance between the decks. Thanks! |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:49 am ] |
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Actually the reflector pulls off with little effort. And yes the ends get rubber caps. That is a must. You can get the caps in the wire closet accessory departments of any big box home improvement store (same one you get your driveway reflectors at) 20 caps for $1.50 My problem with wood is that a given 3/16" dia wood dowel may be stiffer or less stiff than the next 3/16 dia wooden dowel. a 3/16" dia fiberglass rod on the other hand will be the same stiffness as the next 3/16" dia fiberglass rod and they dont fatigue near as fast either. If you do use wood, I would go with hickory for it resilience in flex. Be aware that if you try to get two rods from one driveway reflector the finished rod length will be 23 5/8". So take this and what you plan on clamping into consideration if you set a fixed height deck Also I made my deck adjustable using 3/4" all-thread corner post with nuts and washers on both the top and bottom of the upper deck. I can adjust from 2" to 36" P.S. I guess I should also say I have several sets of rods for several differnt clamping jobs. One set for brace clamping, one set for top and back to rim clamping and another set to misc uses. The top and back to rim set has felt padded chair foot pads on one end to distribute the clamping pressure over a larger surface area at the clamping end. these are a 1" dia. plastic disk with a metal socket on the rod end and 1/8" thick felt pad on the bottom. you can get these in the hardware department at Wal-Mart or any hardware store. The socket is 1/4" inside dia. I epoxy them onto the clamping end of the rod for top and back to rim clamping |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:44 am ] |
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I use kite rods, 3/16" thick, from intothewind.com (although there are many others), who also carry the rubber tips. Work just lovely. |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:49 am ] |
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As far as costs go, I think I've figured it up before and it's almost the same whether you order from Into the Wind or buy at the local home center. They do sell a nice little Zona hacksaw at Into the Wind which works great for sawing carbon fiber and fiberglass. That may be available at the home center, too, for all I know. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:58 am ] |
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Yep! After shipping it all comes out in the wash. That is the only reason I buy the driveway reflectors. Same day delivery  One advantage into the Wind does have is true 48" long stock vs the 47 1/4 avrage length of the rods in the driveway reflectors. However if your deck is adjustable in height, then no big deal. |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:15 am ] |
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I use the driveway markers and I put rubber tips on all of them. I have a local hardware store that sells everything. |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:30 pm ] |
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I will warn you that the dense fiberglass rods will dull your bandsaw blade. Yep. |
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| Author: | hoosierukes [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:46 pm ] |
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You're right, Bill. I killed a really nice blade with just one cut! |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:51 pm ] |
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Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful. So, is a hacksaw my best bet for cutting fiberglass? Micheal, I'm planning to make my deck fixed height, using a shelf for the top part. But I'm planning to make at least one auxiliary table for things that will be clamped at different heights. If anyone feels they've found the ideal ratio of rod length to clamping height, I'd love to hear it. |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:37 pm ] |
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Hi Todd I changed over from Wood to Fiberglass a while back and muck prefer fiberglass, more flex and consistent pressure. I got mine from a Kite supplier Colin told me about in the UK and they offered a cutting service, their rods came in 2.4m lengths so I had them split into 4 even lengths, so maybe into the wind or someone offers the same ? |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:28 pm ] |
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I haven't tried firberglass, but I have used many different wooden ones, I just rip some on the table saw when I need more or different ones. Ash seems to work really well. |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 8:18 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Todd Rose] Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful. So, is a hacksaw my best bet for cutting fiberglass? Micheal, I'm planning to make my deck fixed height, using a shelf for the top part. But I'm planning to make at least one auxiliary table for things that will be clamped at different heights. If anyone feels they've found the ideal ratio of rod length to clamping height, I'd love to hear it.[/QUOTE] Todd, your hacksaw or a fine bladed bandsaw will work fine on the fibreglass rods, be careful about getting any splinters though, as they are are devil to get out of your finger (don't ask). I find that 1" is fine for the flex in the rods and I adjust my base to suit the job. Don't forget the depth of your dish when calculating raising blocks. I keep some extra ply sheet handy for things like lute tops where they don't sit in a dish. Like everything else, just draw a sketch for each situation. 
Colin |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:41 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=hoosierukes] You're right, Bill. I killed a really nice blade with just one cut![/QUOTE] Not me, I have to do everything in grand style...I must have made 60 cuts total to whittle those puppies down to the right size. The dense silica in the fiberglass just wears a blade down quickly! So......figuring in the cost of the bandsaw blade, my total go-bar rod expense using dirt-cheap driveway markers was WAAAAY over the cost of using the kite-store that has the cutting service. Go with the kite store. Oh, and yes, the little splinters will stay around for a day or two, and the fiberglass dust is aggravating to clean out from around your blade guides, etc. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:42 am ] |
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Anyone tried using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut fiberglass? Arnt - how thick do you make your ash go bars? |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 1:00 am ] |
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works great. melts the end fibers so no splinters |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 1:34 am ] |
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I wish I knew where these came from, but at Red Rocks they had a bunch of fiberglass "sticks" as well as rods. They are maybe 10mm wide by 2-3mm thick, and I really like them. Seemed like they were less likely to slip off a brace than the rods. Robbie might know where they're from, so if you read this, Robbie, where are those from? Mike |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:04 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Todd Rose] Arnt - how thick do you make your ash go bars?[/QUOTE] Oh, I don't know; 5 x 10 mm perhaps? Something like that anyway. If you have a table saw, make a few and see how stiff they feel. What I like about ash is it does not break easily, no wonder they used to use it for skis and axe handles! I did make some square ones, but I prefer the rectangular ones so you always know where and how they will bend. <edit> I went down and measured some, they were more in the 8 x 18 mm range. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:05 am ] |
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I use the same as Arnt and they do work very well! |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:33 pm ] |
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Thanks again, everybody. Very helpful. |
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| Author: | mikev [ Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:20 pm ] |
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another advantage of buying from "into the wind" is that you can buy a real nice stunt kite from them and have tons of fun on windy days, I have several I bought there and a few from other places too.. 
Mike,, |
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